![]() ![]() I do not know if the "raystackle" meets this requirement, all I know is that it's 60 bucks, runs from a 12 volt car/truck battery, charges one two or three deep cycle batteries. Here we need a real no bull charger that is serious about deep cycle battery charging. I would turn the battery charger on, only when the alternator is running as of the relay coupling. Here we need a battery charger running from 12 volt DC: Something like: If I were to put back an auxilliary battery in my BW, I would use a deep cycle battery and use a deep cycle battery charger run from the bus main battery and alternator system. I gave more thought to the battery coupling issue. While the bus is parked, the fridge becomes an ice box, draining nothing. While the bus is running, I have a fridge getting up to 65 Amps from the alternator. Some report good results from solar panels too.Īfter, I looked at simple data and calculations, I knew that the auxilliary battery was giving me few hours running the fridge while my bus was not running.Īfter, I had too many hours wasted while on vacation about too many dead batteries: #POWERINVERTER DUAL BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY INSTALL#My intention is to install a small (2 Amp) charger permanently in the van and just plug it in after heavy use or when camping where AC is available. What Twinfalls alludes to, I think is the fact that although deep cycle batteries discharge perhaps more slowly and can do so more completely than "starting" batteries, they also like a much slower charge.Ĭonceivably, a well discharged Deep Cycle battery could take many hours of driving to fully recharge. This is a subject that, for some, is right up there with the oil debate and the 009 for some reason. I gave up, I had enough dead batteries when it was the most annoying, I do not have it any more. Yes, no camshaft, computer controlled valves.Much faster than double head camshafts.Ībout, the Westy Aux. Cars will need much more electric power to drive electric valves. has a microcomputer based charger/discharger electronics to have all cells helping each other to give you the 63 Volt juice. In this future technology, each 2 volt cell of the bat. Wait for the next auto battery technology, based on 63 volts Using Lithium Ion you have in portables. Could a smart coupling do wonders about a unique charging system coping with very different battery needs ? There is no affordable good solution in this power range. ![]() Bad news, this is the worst choice, considering batteries charging. Good news, this is the best choice, considering batteries discharging. You picked the Deep Cycle auxilliary battery path. There are only: Compromise not so bad solutions. Mine currently has a 20 Amp fuse, but I'll be installing a breaker instead because I would suggest installing a seperate fuse panel from your aux battery and a main fuse before that as close to the battery as you can. I used 2 guage cables and gained a few volts so the. There's a slight voltage loss with the isolator, but no big deal. I also use a deep cycle for the aux battery (good choice, BTW). I use an isolator, and like it, but the relays are fine too. I don't need this to be complicated, just reliable. Will I need a fuse panel or will a circut breaker be sufficient? I'll just be running a couple of 12 volt accessory ports and a 600 watt inverter. I will be using a deep cycle battery for the aux. My main question isĭo I need an isolator or a relay such as the one they sell at Bus Depot.(Hella) I know this issue has been touched on numerous times, but I'm still confused. View original topic: Relay or isolator for Dual battery setup? :: View topic - Relay or isolator for Dual battery setup? Forumsįorum Index -> Bay Window Bus -> Relay or isolator for Dual battery setup? ![]()
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